Tai-rantula. Breeding tarantulas is not an exact science! No one is going to be able to tell you that if you keep your spider at 74F and at 40% humidity for 4 weeks and 3 days then increase it 86F and 70% humidity for 6 weeks and 2.5 days then your spider will drop a sac 4 days later!! If it was that easy then everyone would be breeding tarantulas all the time!!! You will have conflicting advice sometimes!!!! This is because different people have different methods!!!!! You just have to find the method that works for you and this is called experience!!!!!! Now from my experience (which is slightly longer than 5 minutes of keeping tarantulas and involves breeding the odd species along the way including Brachypelmas) the 2 main breeding methods are -

1. Keep the spider at a constant warm temperature of say around 85F and a high humidity of around 70-80% whilst feeding the crap out of it and hoping for the best. It seems to work well for some people but I can't say I've ever had much luck with this method which is why I use method 2.

2. Climatic trigger. Usually this involves giving the spider a cooler dryer period (of a month or two) after mating to simulate winter then increasing the temperature and humidity to simulate spring when the spiders will usually lay their sacs. So in my case most of my spiders are kept between 75-80F normally therefore I would drop the temperature for the mated spider to around 65-68F whilst letting the substrate dry out and then slowly bring it back up to 78-82F after a couple of months. During the last month I would increase the humidity by misting the tank a couple of times a week and then just dumping a load of water in to soak the substrate. Feeding is down to personal preference but I have found heavy feeding tends to lead to the spider moulting rather than dropping a sac therefore I only feed my mated females a couple of extra crickets a month than they would usually get.

Incubation. Again this is entirely down to personal preference. Some people like to just leave it with the mother whilst others will take the sac and incubate it. The choice of incubator style and time at which you take the sac varies from person to person but if using the incubator in the link I posted then anytime after 14 days of the sac being produced is usually good but the unofficial standard time is 28 days. I personally take the sac from the female at around day 25.

Just like my original post the information contained in it is accurate. Whether or not it is what you want to hear is another matter entirely.

As Duke said, it is far from an exact science. If it were, we would have too many metallica's being sold at R5 each.
Just a word of advice. If you come on here as a newbie (Or anyone for that matter) with an attitude like that, you shouldn't expect to get too much help from people on here.

Ceratogyrus wrote: As Duke said, it is far from an exact science. If it were, we would have too many metallica's being sold at R5 each.
Just a word of advice. If you come on here as a newbie (Or anyone for that matter) with an attitude like that, you shouldn't expect to get too much help from people on here.

Have to agree 100%. If I come here with my hat in my hand, asking for help, I'm certainly not going to start throwing my weight around like everyone here owes me something.

Ask nicely, take the advice you get, or don't. It's up to you.

: D

HAHAHHA LOVE that pic!

The Magnificent Duke is correct there is a lot of confusion and a lot of miss information.
What I've found is that some species require specific climatic shifts (like G. pulchra require almost 17 degree temperature shift) or GBB's need a "wet season" at just the right time.
The good news is B. vagans are some of the easiest breed and get a sac from. If she accepted a male, and is still eating then she is "in the mood" and I would say keep her where she is.
Just be warned they can have 4 to 5 hundred babies at a time.