Ok, the best advice so far was to check out beardeddragons.org.

You will need a cage for each of them ideally, as they are solitary, greedy and territorial animals and can damage and stress each other even when they're small. The ideal cage size is anything from 1.20 m length. The bigger the better

I'd recommend only newspaper or unprinted paper as substrate for small dragons, when they're bigger you can look at other stuff. They can get sick from ingesting any substrate while feeding and exploring. Sand is actually not a natural substrate for them as they live on firm surfaces such as mixed packed sand and clay soil.

Don't go for cheap UV tubes as mentioned. It's probably enough to get the UV 5 but if the minimal distance of the light fixture to the beardie is bigger than 30 cm, you can go for UV 10. If you're rich, you can combine a UV 5 with a UV 2 tube, that's ideal! You'll need fresh tubes after 6 months...

The hot spot for basking can be created with a normal light bulb. The ideal temp at the hot spot is about 42 deg. C, the coolest area in the tank at daytime should be around 24 deg. They need around 12 hours of daylight and heat.

I use a heat pad only in winter when night temps go beneath 20 deg. C.

You can furnish the tanks with sturdy rocks and wood but there are many other ways. Beardies also appreciate a hideout.

Baby beardies need to eat protein food three times daily, after a few month twice daily and so forth, until as adult a beardie that eats its greens willingly needs to be fed protein food only twice a week. Best food I'd recommend are, you guessed it, roaches , dusted with a high quality calcium powder at least once a day for babies and twice weekly for adults.

The food items shouldn't be longer than the distance between a beardie's eyes, but I think that when feeding roaches, the food item can be a bit larger as roaches have softer legs. But to be sure, a baby beardie should rather be fed smaller than bigger items.

Protein food can consist of roaches, crickets, termites, silkworms and their moths, gaga grubs, superworms when the beardies are bigger, and wax worms and meal worms occasionally.

Greens should be offered daily, shredded into small pieces. A good list of suitable and less suitable options is this: Beardie Greens List Added to this list (note that salad doesn't feature high on it!) I also feed mulberry leaves regularly and grow the greens for mine in my own garden.

They benefit from bathing to prevent dehydration, as many beardies need to learn how to drink first. The water should be pretty warm, like for human babies, and should reach up to their shoulders only. Never leave a beardie unattended when bathing it to prevent accidental drowning! They also defaecate regularly into their bath water and need to be taken out immediately when this happens.

Many reptilians carry salmonella and other germs, so after contact with them and especially their faeces wash your hands well!

Beardies are by no means a cheap or low maintenance pet, but they deserve the best care, being as rewarding as they are

WOW..... Thanx guys... This helps a lot, I will do more research on them, and thank you so so very much.

Marula, can you please pm me a list of roaches you have for sale? Please.

Thank you once again everyone

I hope I dont burst your bubble - but I hope you have relatively deep pockets.

If you are to keep bearded dragons properly, they can be more expensive than an Ex wife .

Lighting is VERY important. Zoomed has lighting specifically for beardies - dont go less than the UVB suggested (UVB 10).

when they are small, calcium coated roaches or crickets. I wouldn't feed mealworms to baby bearded dragons. Adult bearded dragons LOVE giant mealworms though - good fattening food source.

Feed foodstuffs that are maximum half the size of the dragons head when babies.

letting them bask in natural sunlight a few hours a week is advised.

You can get calcium sand that can be ingested. Sand pit sand also works ok. If you cant get calcium sand - I suggest feeding outside the enclosure.

you can feed a few crickets daily or every second day - you will be able to guage quickly how much they eat. Bearded dragons eat PLENTY!!!!

if you pay attention to the food and lighting, then you will be fine.

hope this helps

scorpion wrote:

You can get calcium sand that can be ingested. Sand pit sand also works ok. If you cant get calcium sand - I suggest feeding outside the enclosure.

PLEASE don't ever use calcium sand with beardies - it has killed many of them They can die of impaction if they ingest too much...

I've heard many bad things about calcium sand too, but I know people who kept theirs on pet sand for many years without a problem. I don't know if they knew what they were doing. :huh: It just seemed to work. Always thought sand was the best option.
You learn something new everyday

I'm just saying that loose sand won't be their natural substrate. Surely they can thrive on it and look pretty in it

But stay away from any loose substrate with baby dragons...