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Winter has not been very nice to my T's this year, I've lost 3 T's in total (and so far, touch wood).
The first T to die was a H. incei, it died in the middle of moulting poor thing was only halfway out. On closer inspectin there were little white dots on him, I'm assuming they were mites so I cleaned out my incei communal and started from scratch. I microwaved everything this time round.
The second T to die was a G. rosea ncf, died in the post. I have to assume that the little guy was handled rough or the temperature dropped to below freezing. The othe 2 T's that were in the same package survived thank goodness.
The final death, which I found today after work was a L. striatipes. It moulted yesterday and all seemed fine, I misted the corner of the tank since it hadn't eaten for more than a month (it was a 1cm sling). Well this evening I found it in the tank right way up with its legs curled towards it's body (hugging itself?). Now I know it moved away from it's own skin by about 3cm but then it appears to have died. Quite a mystery.
All 3 of the T's that died were slings and from what I've read the chances of slings dying are higher but I'm worried there might be an overall problem with my set ups. My room isn't cold, I manage just fine without a jacket.
It's been a little while but I'd say that looks about right although they weren't all over like that, mainly around it's fangs anD booklungs. I stay in Fourways, I have a fan heater in my room which turns on everything the temperature drops significantly, my room is also north-facing so the sun keeps it toasty during the day. All my tanks are relatively dry except for a damp corner and I keep my H. Gigas quite moist. I don't know the exact temps in my room I've never actually measured but at the moment I can sit in my room with just a t-shirt on.
@ Kent90 from what you have described it appears (assuming) you have mites or a fungus or mould problem....
And i am assuming your cages are damp all the time?? If so that is your issue why your spiders are dying...
You can fix this by more ventilation holes and by not using damp substrate... it is a huge misconception that tarantulas need loads for humidity and blah blah.... its a lie... what i could suggest is keep all your spiders cages bone dry but the substrate must be compacted hard.... then all you need to do is mist the cages lightly once a week for slings 0.5cm-4cm and then for spiders +4cm in size provide a water dish like a coke bottle cap or a big reptile water bowl for a large spiders... replace the water in these when ever they are dry, keep a fresh constant water supply... spiders will get 85% of there water from there food if not more.... if it is a species that does require a bit more humidity for example Haplopelma lividum then use the water bowl on bone dry substrate but once a week slightly over flow the water bowl so some water goes onto the substrate thus providing more humidity... and i guarantee you will have no more issues... been doing this for 5 years with not one death...
Regarding the temperature tarantulas are hardy creatures regarding the weather :happy: they can with stand temps of 0-35`
not saying you must do this.... as long as your room does not drop below 10` in winter they will be just fine and will eat less... all spiders can with stand temps of 0` for a sort period of time... only once exception is the Avicularia genius 10` or below will most probably result in a dead spider...
so +10` in winter and ull be fine, my spider room at night is 10` and day is 18-20 in winter and all my spiders are eating and shedding.... Dont get caught up in whole humidity and temperature aspect for each species its a bunch of B.S.. you will waist money, time and ull be freaking out all the time when you humidity and temperature changes... just follow the basics... BASICS ARE BEST!!!!!!!!!!!